Khairul Alam, Dhaka: Dhaka isn’t just a city; it’s a living archive, where every brick and pathway whispers tales of centuries past. What started as Jahangirnagar in 1610, christened by Mughal Governor Islam Khan Chisti, soon reverted to its familiar name, Dhaka, in the hearts of its people.
This vibrant metropolis has pulsed through the pivotal Language Movement of 1952 and the heroic Liberation War of 1971, culminating in Bangladesh’s triumphant independence on December 16, 1971.
Yet, long before these milestones, Dhaka was already adorned with historical jewels that, to this day, stand as proud sentinels of time. Let’s embark on a journey through these enduring legacies.
Echoes of Empire and Resilience
Stroll through Old Dhaka, and you’ll find Bahadur Shah Park near Sadarghat, a tranquil green space with a poignant history. Once known as Victoria Park, it was solemnly renamed to honor Bahadur Shah Zafar and the brave souls of the 1857 Sepoy Mutiny. To its west, the scholarly halls of Jagannath University hum with modern life, while the District Court stands to its northwest, a continuous thread connecting past justice with present.
Verdant Oases and Architectural Grandeur
Escape the urban bustle at Baldha Garden in Wari, a botanical sanctuary born from the vision of Zamindar Narendra Narayan Roy Chowdhury in 1909. It took eight painstaking years to cultivate this 3.38-acre marvel, which once boasted 18,000 trees, including 800 rare species. Today, 672 plant species thrive here, many exclusive to this very spot in Bangladesh.
The imposing Lalbagh Fort stands as a testament to Mughal architectural brilliance. Begun in the late 17th century by Prince Muhammad Azam, Aurangzeb’s third son, this unfinished masterpiece along the Buriganga River houses the serene tomb of Pari Bibi, a grand darbar hall, a hammam, and a mosque. Its construction, later continued by Nawab Shaista Khan, offers a fascinating glimpse into a grand, yet incomplete, imperial vision.
Across the Buriganga from Bara Katra lies the intriguing Zinjira Palace. Mughal Subahdar Ibrahim Khan II conceived it as a pleasure retreat, but history painted a darker fate. After the fall of Siraj-ud-Daulah, Bengal’s last Nawab, it became a poignant prison for Ghoseti Begum, Amena Begum, and Siraj-ud-Daulah’s wife and daughter.
Palatial Residences and Historic Hostels
Along the Buriganga’s edge in Kumartuli, Ahsan Manzil reigns, a majestic pink palace that evolved from Sheikh Enayet Ullah’s 18th-century Rangmahal. Nawab Abdul Ghani meticulously transformed it, commencing reconstruction in 1859 and completing it in 1872. He bestowed upon it the name ‘Ahsan Manzil’ in honor of his son, Khwaja Ahsanullah, who made it his home.
Venturing south from Chawkbazar towards the Buriganga, you’ll encounter Bara Katra. Built in 1644 by Dewan Abul Qasim, it was intended as a residence for Shah Shuja, though he never occupied it.
Instead, this grand edifice served as a vital caravanserai and almshouse, offering refuge to travelers and the homeless. A short distance to its east, Choto Katra, believed to have been constructed by Shaista Khan between 1662 and 1671, now hums with the life of various businesses, echoing its long history of commerce.
Gardens of Grandeur and Cultural Hubs
The Rose Garden in Gopi Bagh still blossoms with its unique origin story. In the 1930s, the newly wealthy zamindar Rishikesh Das, inspired by the Baldha zamindar’s opulent garden house, created this stunning 22-bigha expanse. It’s said he was spurred by a humiliating exclusion from a high-society gathering at Baldha due to his lower caste. He then filled his own garden with rare rose varieties from across the globe, creating his personal Eden.
Further along the Buriganga in Farashganj, the 19th-century Ruplal House captivates with its distinctive architecture. Built by the Hindu merchant brothers Ruplal Das and Raghunath Das, this two-story mansion boasts over 50 rooms and grand courtrooms, reflecting a period of flourishing trade and elegant living.
The striking red edifice known as Lal Kuthi, or Northbrook Hall, stands proudly by the Buriganga in Farashganj. Its crimson hue gives it its local name, but its historical significance runs deep. On October 16, 1904, it hosted a pivotal meeting orchestrated by Khwaja Mohammad Yusuf of the Dhaka Nawab family, celebrating the opening of Dhaka’s new revenue and postal office and acknowledging the British government’s decision to make Dhaka a provincial capital.
Spiritual Sanctuaries and Colonial Legacies
In Armanitola, Old Dhaka, the exquisite Tara Masjid (Star Mosque) shimmers with its hundreds of delicate star motifs, meticulously crafted from chinaware inlaid into white cement. This 18th-century marvel, built by Zamindar Mirza Gholam Pir, is a serene space of spiritual beauty.
The venerable Dhakeshwari Temple, Dhaka’s oldest temple, lies northeast of Lalbagh Fort. Its origins are shrouded in legend, with some attributing its construction to Ballal Sen, who built it to commemorate his birthplace after his mother, King Bijoy Sen’s queen, gave birth to him at Langalband.
Armanitola also holds the legacy of a once-thriving Armenian community, giving the area its very name. Granted permission by Emperor Akbar, Armenians established a strong trading presence, building homes and a small church for worship. Their burials took place beside the Tejgaon Roman Catholic Church, leaving a lasting mark on Dhaka’s diverse religious tapestry.
The magnificent Curzon Hall, a striking red landmark within the Dhaka University area, beautifully blends Victorian, Mughal, and Bengali architectural styles. For over a century, this grand building has been a witness to Dhaka’s academic and social life, currently serving as classrooms and examination halls for the university’s science faculties.
A Mughal Prince’s Unfinished Legacy
Finally, we return to the poignant story of Pari Bibi’s Tomb within Lalbagh Fort. Begun in 1678 by Emperor Aurangzeb’s third son, Azam Shah, the fort’s construction was halted a year later when he was recalled to Delhi due to the Maratha rebellion. Subahdar Shaista Khan resumed work in 1680, but tragedy struck in 1684 with the death of his beloved daughter, Pari Bibi. Believing the fort to be inauspicious, he ceased its construction, leaving behind a beautiful, yet incomplete, testament to a father’s grief.
These sites are more than just old buildings; they are the very soul of Dhaka, inviting you to step back in time and experience the city’s extraordinary journey. Which of these historical gems will you explore first?
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